Portugal has plenty of surprises, but few are as mind-bending as the Covão dos Conchos—an “inverted waterfall” that looks straight out of a fantasy novel. Someone on Instagram sent me a reel about it years ago and I couldn’t believe it was in Portugal! I immediately put it on my wishlist, but it took us a couple of years to get to it.
We first went to Serra de Estrela in winter in that magic window of time between Christmas and New Years. Our whole family had Covid over the holiday and I was going stir crazy. We decided to do a road trip and drive the four hours to Serra de Estrela. We looked around at sunset, and hopped back into the car to drive back home! As silly as that sounds, it was 100% what I needed to just get out. It was dark, icy and cold (this area actually holds Portugal’s only ski slope).
We were able to sample some of the region’s famous cheese at a quick pit stop and I always wanted to go back. Fast forward to this last summer when we made that a reality. We visited Serra de Estrela for a weekend and stayed in the beautiful Casa das Tilas.
Making this hike to this water feature was top of my list, and this time we finally had the time to make it happen! The kids were excited, the temperature was perfect, and we were all ready to see if this “inverted waterfall” looked as unreal in person as it did in every photo and reel I had saved over the years.
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Chapters
What is Covão dos Conchos in Serra de Estrela?
The inverted waterfall in Serra de Estrela is actually an engineered spillway built in the 1950s to divert water between lakes in Serra da Estrela, but when you stand there in person, it feels like the lake has a waterfall into the center of the earth.
Picture a round hole in the middle of a mountain lake, perfectly smooth, with water slipping silently inside. That’s the Covão dos Conchos. Engineers designed it as a spillway to divert water from Ribeira das Naves to Lagoa Comprida, but nature has since softened it—moss, plants, and trickling water make it look magical. It is quite the engineering feat. Online photos can’t capture the quiet eeriness of seeing it with your own eyes.
We hiked this trail with four of our kids on a warm June afternoon, and it turned out to be one of those experiences that checked all the boxes: simple trail, jaw-dropping finale, and a memory our family still talks about.
While our little one almost didn’t make it (she’s not much of a hiker), we pushed through and were able to see it in person. Be very cautious! It is a drain and should be treated with caution.
Our Family Hike Experience at Covão dos Conchos
We set off in the late afternoon in June, which I actually recommend. The day time was blisteringly hot in June and we would have melted if we had tried to hike in the daytime.
We arrived a bit later than I would have liked, around 7 pm. Closer to 5-6 pm would have been better. However, we still had a great time, even that late in the day. There were no more concerns about being too hot! It was the perfect temperature.
The Serra da Estrela sun can be harsh mid-day, but by late afternoon, the light is softer, the temperatures are cooler, and the trail feels calmer.
The path itself is about 4.5–5 km each way (roughly 9–10 km round trip). It’s not technically difficult—mostly a wide dirt and gravel track—but it’s long enough that little legs get tested. I found it to be a lovely hike… Longer than my little ones would have liked, but not too steep or tiring. The older kids loved it.
Our four kids managed it, though we had to keep morale up with snacks, water breaks, and the classic “race to that next rock” trick. The older two strode ahead, while the younger ones needed encouragement. Having the promise of the “giant hole in the lake” at the end worked wonders for motivation.
By the time we reached Covão dos Conchos, the sun was dipping, and the reflection on the lake made it even more dramatic. I raced to see the hole in person, scrambling over rocks with the boys. In the meantime, my husband put up the drone and got the best view of all!
Seven Things to Know Before You Go to Covão dos Conchos
1. Trailhead Location
The hike starts near Lagoa Comprida, a large glacial lake accessible by car. There’s a small parking area where you can leave your vehicle before heading out. We saw people swimming in the lake and it looked lovely! Even just a picnic here would be an enjoyable afternoon.
2. Distance & Time to Get to Covão dos Conchos
Plan for about 3–4 hours round trip, depending on pace and snack breaks. With kids, you’ll likely want closer to 4 hours. We started around 7 pm and were back in the car by 11 pm. Thankfully, Portugal stays up really late in the summer and we were able to go to dinner and get ice cream after the hike, no problem!
We had to use our flashlights on our phones for the last 30 minutes or so, but otherwise it was quite lovely. So, just in case, you might want to bring flashlights to the hike!
3. Difficulty of Covão dos Conchos Hike
I would say it’s moderate. It’s not steep or technical, but the length makes it a challenge for younger hikers. Strollers are not possible—bring a carrier for toddlers. There are a couple of spots that get your heart rate up for a few seconds, but they are minimal. There are boulders to climb in case you have boys like mine. So if you’re not super sporty, don’t worry, it doesn’t really require a high level of fitness, so it’s perfect for families.
4. Best Time of Day to Hike Covão dos Conchos
Late afternoon in summer was perfect for us: cooler temps, golden light, and fewer people. In winter or spring, mornings may be better since weather can shift quickly in the mountains. In winter you likely will deal with snow.
The bonus to going in the spring is the “waterfall” is much more full with runoff and stunning!
5. What to Pack for Hiking Covão dos Conchos
So, you decided you’ll take the hike to Covão dos Conchos in Serra de Estrela! Great. Here are our suggestions, especially made for those of you who are bringing kids with you:
- Plenty of water (no refill spots) – Try to bring eco-friendly bottles, and keep them with you the entire hike!
- Snacks for motivation – Make sure to bring healthy ones as they can bring up your little ones’ energy.
- Hats and sunscreen – Trust me, there’s little to no shade!
- Layers (also for kids) – The Serra da Estrela can change quickly in temperature.
- A camera, because you’ll want proof of this surreal sight. A drone is also fun to bring!
- Bug spray – There were lots of mosquitos when we went.
- Walking shoes or hiking boots – Parts of the Covão dos Conchos trail are rocky, uneven, and can be slippery if it rains.
- A small backpack – If you’re like me, and usually carry the essentials, then this is a must!
- A tiny first-aid kit – When you travel with little kids, you never know, so be sure to bring one just in case!
- Sunglasses for everyone – The sun can be a bit intense, depending on the day.
6. Safety with Kids at Covão dos Conchos
The “inverted waterfall” itself is fascinating, but also a little intimidating. There are no railings! So, be sure to keep your kids close by and set clear boundaries before you arrive. It is NOT recommended to swim around and I never would allow this with kids. You can fall into the drain and would very likely die due to drowning. So, if you have toddlers, do not let them explore on their own, keep them close always.
7. The Payoff isn’t Just the End
It’s not just about the spillway. The hike offers views of mountain ridges, wildflowers, and big skies. You’ll feel the grandeur of Serra da Estrela long before you see the hole. This area is lovely and the lake itself is beautiful to behold!
👉 Tip for families: Bring an early dinner picnic and eat it by Lagoa Comprida before heading home. Watching the light fade over the mountains while munching on sandwiches would be a perfect way to end a Serra da Estrela adventure.
Would we do it again? Absolutely. It’s not an “easy stroll” but it’s manageable with kids who can handle a few hours of walking. I was so happy to cross this off my list!
If you’re traveling in Portugal with children and want to show them something unusual, Covão dos Conchos delivers. Combine this into a visit to Serra de Estrela and take in this lovely part of Portugal.
Where to Stay Near the Covão dos Conchos Hike
If you’re planning to hike Covão dos Conchos with kids, staying close by makes the whole experience much easier! We stayed at Casa das Tilas, a charming, family-friendly remodeled B&B (Bed and Breakfast) tucked into the green hills of Serra da Estrela. And let me tell you, it was the perfect place for a weekend stay.
Casa das Tilas, also referred to as Solar das Tílias, has that warm, mountain-home feel that makes you instantly exhale. Think stone walls, peaceful gardens, and cozy rooms that are ideal after a long day of hiking. The property has plenty of space for kids to explore and play (like the pool), the food is amazing, and the hosts were incredibly welcoming!
However, there are also a few other options where you can stay. For example, the Hotel Eurosol Seia Camelo, located in Seia’s city center (a part of Serra da Estrela Nature Reserve). This has more of a hotel vibe than a guesthouse, but it’s a great option for families as it also offers a pool, different restaurants, and even a gym.
You can also stay at the Casas do Pastor, also in Seia. This is a small hotel with a pool, but what I liked about it is that it has a cosy cabin vibe! So, if you plan to visit Serra de Estrela during winter, perhaps this is the best vibe for you. You will be able to find fireplaces in some rooms, and a chalet style room that sleeps eight people.
How to Get to the Covão dos Conchos Hike
In order to get to Covão dos Conchos in Serra de Estrela, you will need a car. And, if you travel with a crew like mine, the most comfortable way to do so is by either using your own car or renting one. However, you also have the chance to use a taxi or an uber.
The trail begins near Lagoa Comprida via the N339 road from Sabugueiro, the largest lake in Serra da Estrela. Simply put “Lagoa Comprida” in your favorite map app and follow the road! They’re paved, well-marked, and full of beautiful views, so be sure to charge your phone as you may snap some pretty pictures. Once you get there, don’t worry, there’s a small parking area where you can leave your car.
If you travel by car here are a few tips that might be helpful:
- You’ll find nearby towns like Seia, Manteigas, and Covilhã. Perfect for refilling your car, buying some snacks or using a restroom in case you need one!
- Most times of the year the roads are clear, but be careful if traveling during winter as it snows! So, check weather conditions before driving up.
- The trail starts right behind Lagoa Comprida and there are no signs that say “Covão dos Conchos,” so use an offline map or GPS track.
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Visiting Covão dos Conchos ended up being one of those rare family adventures that feels both doable and unforgettable. The trail is simple enough for kids, the scenery is breathtaking, and the “inverted waterfall” truly lives up to the hype. If you’re exploring Serra da Estrela with children and want something unique, peaceful, and a little magical, this hike is worth every step. We left tired, happy, and already talking about when we could return!
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Additional Readings
Casa das Tílias: Authentic, Luxurious Taste in Serra de Estrela
Serra da Estrela: Portugal’s Only Ski Resort and Stunning Mountains
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